FAQ

Structural work

With CLEARMIX omnifix, our spreading mortar, we give you the opportunity to avoid the risk of plaster and lime efflorescence from the mortar. You can reduce that risk even further to 0% with a well-considered selection of other efflorescence-free facade materials. This way you can enjoy an undamaged facade view, even years after the building has been completed.

It is advisable to order colored mortar in one go to avoid slight color differences.

Everyone is familiar with the white or gray rash on masonry. Annoying and not aesthetically pleasing. There are different types of efflorescence: saltpetre, lime efflorescence and gypsum efflorescence. With the use of Omnicol adhesive and thin-bed mortars, the phenomenon of efflorescence on the facade is greatly reduced compared to standard masonry. Always ensure that the guidelines regarding the protection of fresh masonry are adhered to. Do not process mortar at very low temperatures (< 5°C) or during rainfall. In addition, the choice of facing brick is also an important factor in preventing the risk of efflorescence.

The most efficient and ergonomic way to process adhesive mortar is by machine using an adhesive pump. This way it goes faster and the best work is delivered. An alternative processing method is manual processing using a piping bag.

Gluing does not have to be more expensive than traditional masonry. More stones are needed per m², but no grouting is necessary. Per kg. Adhesive mortar costs more than masonry mortar, but the consumption is a lot lower. Productivity also increases with thin joints.

Simple, no. You can also glue all kinds of bandages.

Every facing brick can be glued. Hand molded, molded box or extruded press. For stones with different tolerances, the joint is usually slightly thicker (6 mm). Smooth stones require tight joint lines, but larger tolerances of the stone are sometimes referred to as “living joints”.

The ideal breeding ground for mosses and algae is a moist surface. In traditional masonry, moss usually first forms on the joints. Because the mortar is water-resistant when gluing and the stone dries faster, there is less moisture present and there is less chance of moss formation than with traditional bricklaying.

Adhesive mortar allows virtually no water to pass through, while traditional masonry mortar, joint mortar and thin-set mortar do. As a result, much less water will enter the cavity when gluing. Due to the lack of a joint mortar, the stone also dries much faster.

Sometimes it is decided to leave the butt or vertical joints open. This can be done constructively and above all it saves time for the contractor. However, water can find its way into the cavity more easily, just as with traditional masonry. It is therefore better to construct the glued facade with closed butt joints and only leave open any necessary ventilation butt joints.

Gluing is of much better quality than thin bricklaying. Thin-brick mortar is usually chosen when one wants to apply the mortar with a trowel (i.e. in the traditional way). As a result, the joint will be thicker than with adhesive mortar (often 6-8 mm). The yield will also be lower when laying thin bricks with a trowel than when gluing with a piping bag or pump. Because the mortar consumption is higher, the excess mortar must be scraped out and the facade must be brushed. Practical experience has taught us that gluing is faster and also produces better and better quality work. In addition, much more is technically possible with glue, because the adhesive mortar is much stronger.

Gluing/thin bricklaying, ironing and normal bricklaying of facing bricks.

  • Gluing or thin brickwork: a joint of 4 to 8 mm is created between the facing bricks. The glue or thin-bed mortar (also called thin-bed mortar) is applied recessed (deeper) and the stone is no longer added. Because a thinner joint is created that is not added, the color of the stone largely determines the appearance of the facade. The adhesive mortar or thin-bed mortar is often processed in a color that matches the stone color.
  • Traditional masonry: The joint is approximately 12 mm. When laying bricks, the joint determines the appearance. The thinner the joint, the stronger the effect. 
  • Flushing: This technique involves traditional bricklaying (8-12 mm joint) whereby the colored masonry mortar is also used to finish the joint in one subsequent work pass. It mainly increases returns.  
 

The choice between gluing and thin bricklaying on the one hand and bricklaying or ironing on the other hand is primarily an aesthetic choice.

Tile installation

Sealant is a collective term and comes in countless compositions/materials, with diverse properties. Therefore, make sure to inquire thoroughly in advance about the function (sealing/gluing), the load (swimming pool, expansion joint), and the substrate (color-sensitive natural stone) in order to select the right sealant.

Unfortunately, this is not the case. A sealant is subject to various loads (such as force, tension, moisture, UV), which cause its performance to decrease over time. Therefore, sealant joints are often referred to as "maintenance joints," which should be periodically checked and replaced as necessary, depending on the load. A sealant joint cannot be repaired.

Sealants are made based on an elastomer and are generally used to create a smooth/flexible joint or transition. They have an excellent sealing effect and are better able (than, for example, cement-based grouts) to absorb some tensions/movements.

Yes, the performances of our decoupling mats can be multifaceted. In addition to the main function such as reducing contact noise or decoupling, the mat can have an additional function such as waterproofing, which can be found in the technical data sheet of the product.

Yes, the performances of our decoupling mats can be multifaceted. In addition to the main function such as reducing contact noise or decoupling, the mat can have an additional function such as waterproofing, which can be found in the technical data sheet of the product.

Decoupling mats are applied in places or spaces where one wants to prevent influences from the substrate from causing negative effects in the final finish. This detaches components from each other, which, for example, has a beneficial effect on working floors and on reducing contact noise, as in terraced houses.

No, our self-levelers are developed with excellent flow properties but do not behave like water because they contain a large amount of fillers. Flat and level are also different concepts. For a flat appearance, you need the right amount of material (measured and indicated on the substrate), spread the self-leveler with a trowel or rake, and optionally use a spiked or venting roller for a flat (mirror) end result.

Yes, self-leveling compound is usually applied as a thinner and adhesive leveling layer. Primer is part of this leveling system and helps reduce suction, improve adhesion, and prevent air from escaping from the substrate. These factors can strongly influence the final result of the self-leveling layer during application and drying.

A flat substrate is the basis for a good final finish. This is often overlooked. The possibility of making corrections during the application of the final finish is limited and time-consuming. A flat substrate ensures a flat end result.

When using admixtures, we often see leftovers lingering in the warehouse or bus for a long time. With an opened package, the material loses its working properties over time, and its quality may deteriorate. Also, be alert to the harmful influence of frost. When in doubt, opt for the security of a fresh, unopened package.

When you want to influence the performance and properties of a product yourself, it is good to know that this has been extensively tested by us in advance. We have incorporated the knowledge and experience regarding the quantities to be used, as stated on the packaging and product data sheet, which are often more accurate than you might think.

Naturally, we design our products with a specific application and performance in mind. However, a specific situation in your project may require additional performance or properties. With our admixtures, you can enhance products yourself in terms of water resistance, flexibility, or impact sensitivity.

A finish in (ceramic) tiles should not be considered waterproof, due to factors such as the possibility of microcracks and at the location of the tile edges. Applying the correct waterproofing to the substrate before starting the tiling work is therefore essential.

This choice depends heavily on the situation and the application of your project. Is there a moist environment or are you working within the spray range? This, combined with a risk assessment, determines whether to choose a primer, a paste (coat?), or a complete system of decoupling mats, combined with special fittings.

Sealing materials are applied in places or spaces where one wants to prevent the effects of use from spreading to adjacent spaces, such as moisture in a bathroom.

Unfortunately, there is no definitive answer to this. Consumption depends heavily on the function for which the primer is applied and the substrate on which it is applied. The consumption of a primer applied to reduce suction on a porous substrate will be considerably higher than that of a bonding-promoting primer on a closed substrate. Our indicative consumption calculator is a useful tool to help you with this.

Omnicol supplies ready-to-use primers that do not need to be diluted. Open the packaging, stir, and you're ready to go. Only the suction-reducing plaster primer ZV (FIX+ R and FLEX+ are also dilutable) omnibind can be adjusted to the suction of the substrate by dilution.

When gluing tiles, leveling floors, or plastering walls or ceilings, it is often advisable to provide the substrate with a good pretreatment. You can imagine that these products or adhesives, leveling compounds, or plaster mortar need to adhere to the substrate. To ensure optimal adhesion, it is recommended to apply a primer or primer first. Using a primer can prevent many problems from occurring.

This is possible, under most circumstances, with paste and powder adhesives after at least 24 hours. With fast-hardening powder adhesives, this can be done after just a few hours.

This can be done (carefully) after at least 24 hours. With fast-setting adhesives, this can be done after just a few hours.

This is the pot life, which is usually between 2 and 4 hours. Attention! With fast-hardening adhesives this is only 20-30 minutes.

This is the open time. That is the time you have to place the tile in the adhesive bed once you have applied the adhesive to the substrate. For fast-setting adhesives this is 10 minutes, for standard adhesives this is approximately 20 minutes, for adhesives with an extended open time this is approximately 30 minutes. Temperature and porosity of the subsurface also play a role here. If in doubt, you can feel it with your finger. If you feel that the glue already has a film layer, the open time has been exceeded.

The choice of the right teeth depends on a number of factors; 
  •  the type of tile adhesive (paste or powder), 
  • the 'buttering-floating' method is used, and 
  • the application (wall or floor), 
  • the flatness of the substrate and the flatness of the tile. 

Tip: By regularly removing a tile from the adhesive bed, you can see what the adhesive contact surface looks like and whether this is sufficient. 
For large format tiles >60x60 cm. It is in any case important that the surface is flat. If you need to eliminate large level differences in the surface, you can first level the surface, or you can use a thick-bed mortar with a round-toothed adhesive comb. 
Read some guidelines regarding glue combs on the next page.

There are 3 types of glue, each with their own characteristic properties. They are all standardized within the European standard EN 12004. 
  • Mortar adhesive (R) 
  • Dispersion glue (D) 
  • Reaction glue (R) 

The specific properties of a product say nothing about what you can do with it. Each manufacturer determines this individually in the technical data sheet. So always follow the regulations via our advice module. 
Read more about the different types of tile adhesive on the next page.

Floor installation

With milled underfloor heating it is necessary that there is good security between the existing floor and the underfloor heating pipe. Bonding/securing the pipe is a much underestimated part of the finishing process. The sand-cement floor has a somewhat hard top layer, but underneath there is a very porous layer that has a weak cohesion in practice. This may result in the following: 
  • The weak underlay cannot withstand the 'compressive forces' of a heating and cooling underfloor heating pipe and will come loose more than once. A repair mortar is often applied as a finishing layer. However, experience shows that this can never guarantee the adhesion necessary for sustainable and long-term use. 
  • This "lidding" (which lids, what is lidding?) creates hollow spaces that prevent efficient heat transfer.
  • With softer floor coverings, the filling material can come loose and become compressed due to the load on tables, chairs, etc., for example. This can result in major repair costs. It is even “forbidden” to use a repair mortar for parquet.

To finish an underfloor heating system to a flat floor, a cast screed is always preferable to a traditional, old-fashioned sand-cement screed. The layer thickness can often be much thinner, and at an equivalent thickness the heat release is at least 30% higher. 

Due to the often higher strength of a cast screed floor, it is therefore possible to apply a thinner layer. This allows you to get the maximum efficiency from your heat pump and underfloor heating system. It heats up faster and you have less heat loss.

Leveling industrial and heavily loaded floors is a profession in itself. An old floor is refurbished so that it can be used as new. In addition, it is a frequently used application that is used to repair new concrete floors that have been damaged by rain. Or new concrete floors that must meet a higher flatness class than can be achieved with “normal” poured concrete. Think of AMR floors.

These are mortars that are used for floors that are used in heavily loaded conditions such as workshops, factories and certainly logistics centers. Without being finished with a coating or something similar.

During processing it is necessary to keep the temperature of the subfloor, space and material between 15 °C and 25 °C. In addition, the relative 65% of the lager must be before, during and a few days after maceration!

The combination of flatness, smoothness and hardness of the top layer determines whether a soft or hard covering can be placed, such as tiles or PVC. A rougher top layer is much less important for a finish with tiles, while for a floor finish with, for example, PVC and marmoleum, an extremely smooth top layer is necessary. The flow rate may differ per grade or type of leveling compound. But with proper use, all our leveling compounds will become perfectly flat.

Too often, an “old” floor is completely demolished to ultimately create a new floor that is suitable for the final finish. 
Together with Omnicol Flooring, it is often possible to avoid demolishing the old floor and thus save time and costs. We immediately pour a new flat layer over the old floor. This guarantees that your project will proceed quickly. And an ultra-flat floor, suitable for any final finish. This saves you time, demolition costs and inconvenience.

Preparing the surface is one of the most important parts of achieving a successful end result. Depending on the surface you want to improve and the end goal you want to achieve: 
  •  you can often finish it with a simple primer. 
  • OR you may have to further remove the surface, for example in the case of loose parts. 
  • OR you still have to pre-process by so-called dust-free “shot blasting”. This removes the top layer and any contamination from the surface and "roughens it", or increases the surface area for better adhesion. Excellent for all kinds of leveling compounds and screed floor mortars to adhere to.

Omnicol Flooring's cast screed floor mortars are characterized by high compressive strength and fast drying. This makes them extremely suitable for use in rapid construction concepts or small (home) renovations. So that the floor can be put back into use as quickly as possible. A time saving of 80% compared to standard solutions is quite normal with our cast screed floor mortars. The higher strength makes it possible to be poured ultra-thinly onto underfloor heating systems. This results in more efficient heat transfer and the floor warms up very quickly. The ultimate solution for underfloor heating systems, where efficient heating and delivery are key.

In many cases, a renovation mortar is a product with a comparable processing as a leveling mortar, but a renovation mortar can handle a greater layer thickness. And sometimes renovation mortars are provided with additional additives or auxiliary materials to make them more suitable for floors with different substrates or widely varying layer thicknesses in a floor field. 
A renovation mortar is also often used to give subfloors that have been (semi) demolished, for example by removing tiles, a smooth, tile-ready surface again.

In principle no. If, unexpectedly, small imperfections become visible the day after leveling, you can polish the floor slightly with a mesh net.

With almost all variants it is possible with a layer thickness of 3 mm. Apply a finish after 12 hours (at 20 degrees and between 50%-70% RH). Thicker layers and higher humidity require more drying time.

  • On anhydrite surfaces you always use a plaster-based leveling compound. 
  • In addition, the fiber variant is the solution for the so-called Screed floor such as Fermacell and Rigidur. 
  • On standard stony surfaces, cement-based leveling compounds are the most common choice. In general, they are quickly ready for the next floor finish.

Before you can start leveling, it is necessary to treat the surface. With proper pre-treatment you apply a membrane that reduces or eliminates any compatibility problems, such as smooth and closed surfaces, moisture, unevenness and/or loose dust, sand or dirt particles.

Take a small amount of water (one capful for example) and empty it onto the subfloor. 
  • Has the amount of water been absorbed into the floor within 2 minutes? Then you have an absorbent surface. 
  • If some drop formation is still visible after two minutes, you have a moderately absorbent surface. 
  • If the poured amount of water remains visible as a “puddle” even after a few minutes, then you have a 'non' absorbent surface.

Finishing

Due to the diversity of applications and surfaces, it is best to use our plaster guide for this.

The drying time of Omnimix plaster mortars varies per product. We have normally hardening and fast hardening plaster mortars. You can recognize the fast-hardening plaster mortars by the R in the name. Under ideal conditions, these can be tiled after 3 to 4 hours. For a finish other than tiles: Always follow the processing instructions.

You can apply our plaster mortars to the most common surfaces. In layer thicknesses of 1 mm. up to 40mm. fat. More than enough to also use in renovation.

The choice between gypsum mortar and cement mortar depends on the application. Plaster mortar is a good choice for dry indoor applications where a smooth finish is important. Plaster mortar is not ideal in wet areas. Cement mortar is resistant to moisture and extreme temperatures and is a better choice for wet areas and outdoor applications. Cement mortar has much higher strength and is more durable than gypsum mortar. 
Never simply apply a cement-based plaster mortar to a plaster-based surface. Use specially suitable plaster mortars, such as our 90GR omnimix, W100 R omnimix or W100R LIGHT omnimix.

Omnicol has a specific primer that you can apply to a wall with soot penetration and then plaster it. Use the TPW omnibind for this. Your wall is therefore immediately protected against moisture penetration.

A primer ensures better adhesion of the plaster mortar to the substrate. This is especially important for smooth, closed and porous or highly absorbent surfaces. Where plaster mortar without a primer would have difficulty bonding properly. In addition, a primer also ensures even absorption of the plaster mortar, making it easier to strip off the plaster mortar and polish it, sand it or finish it with a trowel.

Still a question?

We will be happy to help you.